Basic hand stitches for mending and construction

Most hand sewing, from a loose button to a closed seam, uses a small set of stitches. Four of them handle the majority of everyday mending and construction: the running stitch, the backstitch, the whipstitch and the slipstitch. Each has a distinct job. The running stitch is quick and flexible, the backstitch is the strongest of the four for seams, the whipstitch joins and finishes edges, and the slipstitch closes a fold so the join is nearly invisible. Learning these four, and knowing when each one is the right choice, covers most of what a hand sewer needs to begin.

All four stitches work with the same basic tools: a hand-sewing needle sized to the fabric, thread matched to the fiber and a pair of small scissors. Thread that is too heavy enlarges the needle hole and can leave a visible line, while thread that is too fine may break under strain. The stitches also differ in three ways that matter when choosing: strength under load, visibility on the finished garment and speed. A fast stitch may be weak, and a strong one may show. Keep those trade-offs in mind as each stitch is described below.

Choosing a stitch by the job

A useful way to choose is to start with the job rather than the stitch. Ask first whether the join is temporary, whether it must bear weight and whether the thread should show. A temporary join points to the running stitch. A seam that must hold points to the backstitch. An edge that needs to be held or finished points to the whipstitch, and a closed fold that should disappear points to the slipstitch. Most repairs combine several of these, such as a backstitched seam with a whipstitched edge, so it helps to know each stitch well enough to switch between them.

Running stitch for basting and gathering

The running stitch is the simplest hand stitch. The needle passes in and out of the fabric at regular intervals, leaving a line of short stitches on the surface and the underside. It is used for basting, which holds layers together temporarily before permanent stitching, and for gathering, where a row of long running stitches is pulled to draw fabric into a shorter length. Because the stitch is less secure under strain than a backstitch, it suits temporary work and light seams. Basting stitches are usually about 1/4 to 1/2 inch long, while stitches for a seam are closer to 1/8 inch, although the right length always depends on the job. Finish a run of running stitches with two or three small backstitches at the end, or tie a knot on the wrong side. Without a secure finish, the line can slide out of the fabric when it is pulled, especially when it is holding a gather.

Backstitch where a seam must hold

The backstitch creates a continuous line that is stronger than the running stitch, because each stitch doubles back to overlap the one before it. Work it by bringing the needle up one stitch length ahead of the last stitch, then inserting it back into the end of the previous stitch. The result looks like a solid line on the surface, while the underside shows overlapping stitches. Backstitching uses more thread than a running stitch, but it is the usual choice for seams that will be pulled, such as the crotch of pants, underarm seams and the reattachment of a strap. Anchor both ends of a backstitched line with a few stitches worked over the same spot, so the thread cannot pull free at the start or the finish.

Whipstitch for edges and overcasting

The whipstitch passes diagonally over an edge, catching the fabric with a short stitch each time. It is used to join two folded edges, to close the opening of a small pillow and to overcast a raw edge so it does not fray. Stitches placed close together give a firm edge, while stitches spaced farther apart make a lighter join. Because the stitch sits on the surface, it is more visible than a slipstitch. It suits seams on the inside of a garment or the edges of a trim where appearance matters less.

Slipstitch for closing folds with little showing

The slipstitch is the choice when a join should be nearly invisible. It closes the opening in a lining, attaches a folded edge to a flat surface or finishes a fold where the thread should not show. The stitch alternates two movements. The needle picks up one or two threads of the opposite layer or fold, then slides about 1/4 inch inside the fold before coming out again for the next pickup. Repeating that pattern hides the thread between the layers. Keep the pickups small and the tension light, so the join does not pucker. The slipstitch is slower than the whipstitch and offers less strength, so it belongs to finishing work rather than to load-bearing seams.

Practice each stitch on a scrap of the same fabric as the garment before using it on the real piece. A sample shows how much tension that fabric needs and how the stitch looks from the right side. Knits in particular stretch and recover, so a stitch that looks neat on woven cotton may pucker on jersey unless it is worked with slightly looser thread.

If you learn only one of these stitches before attempting a repair, make it the backstitch. A split underarm or inseam is a common first repair, and it is exactly the kind of seam that must carry load. Overlap sound stitching a short distance beyond each end of the split, then sew along the original seam line with small backstitches, reusing the old stitch holes where possible so the fabric is not weakened by extra punctures.